Urubamba (Inti Raymi)
86-20 37th Avenue
Jackson Heights, NY 11372
718-672-2224
http://www.urubambarestaurant.com/

Inti Raymi, at c. 36-years-old the doyenne of Peruvian restaurants in Queens, has reopened as Urubamba (The old name, which refers to an Incan sun festival, survives parenthetically on the menu). Glittering masks of wide-eyed deities, dark wood, dimmed lights, and gracious service make this an intriguing setting in which to explore a wide selection of grilled meat and sea-food dishes, spicy and garlicky appetizers like papas a la huancaina, and an especially fiery version of the beguiling light-green salsa found in many Peruvian restaurants.

Tacu tacu (fried rice and beans) underneath grilled carne encebollada--a meal to sustain you all day--cried out for the company of a crisp lager such as Peru's Cristal, but Urubamba is currently without a liquor license. However, there is a loop-hole: chicha jora, a refreshing, mildly alcoholic fermented drink made from corn, resembling hard cider. This drink went particularly well with ceviche of corvina, redolent of lime and cilantro.

Regular hours are scaled back on weekends, but Breakfast is served until 11:00 AM (Sunday) or 12:00 AM (Saturday). Buen provecho! (07/17/09).